First Ride: 2024 Royal Enfield Himalayan

First published in Vicarious magazine- Spring 2024

The sharp autumn air in Manali serves as a reminder that winter is only a couple of calendar pages away. Soon, the lush valley will have a hearty snow dusting, and this quaint resort town in India’s northernmost Himachal Pradesh state will begin a chilly transformation. By the time my bags hit the ground, the sun hung low, and the Himalayan Mountains soaking up the horizon were bathed in warm, pastel hues. Adventure brings many here, though, for us, it’s in the form of the all-new 2024 Royal Enfield Himalayan.

Certain places transcend borders and national identity, existing unto themselves. The Himalayan Mountain range is undoubtedly such an esteemed locale, with its reach extending across the dividing lines of five sovereign nations, providing a home to nine out of ten of the world’s tallest peaks. The mountains serve as a main artery for the entire region, with an estimated 15,000 glaciers feeding countless waterways. These are only a few achievements that one of the earth’s youngest mountain ranges has to its name.

Himalayans started rolling out of Royal Enfield’s Chennai-based manufacturing plant in 2016, seizing attention in North America with its bargain-bin pricing. The plucky lightweight ADV made its bones by side-stepping the tech-heavy pretenses all too common in the category, delivering refreshing simplicity that made us look past spec-sheet shortcomings. Sure, the air-cooled 411cc thumper was, well, slow, the suspension soft, and its frame flexed more than political opinions on the campaign trail. The first-generation Himi is a classic case of “greater than the sum of its parts,” that amounted to a small, maneuverable motorcycle with a delightfully dogged disposition. You might not get there fast, but you’ll get there.

After 124 years of doing business, Royal Enfield is at a technological turning point. The latest Himalayan is a from-the-ground-up redesign that skips several evolutionary steps and folds in longstanding engineering elements used by European or Japanese competitors. We can tie that narrative string to its all-new Sherpa 450 powerplant, the brand’s first-ever water-cooled engine, featuring four valves and DOHC; the larger 452cc single-cylinder engine pumps out 39 horsepower and 39 pound-feet of torque—a 65 percent increase in power compared to its predecessor. A Nikasil-coated cylinder and forged piston are all signs that a higher build quality standard has arrived. Admittedly, those internal upgrades are tough to discern from gazing at the side cases, though a full-color TFT display (despite being a bit buggy) and ride-by-wire throttle should dissolve any doubts.

Keen-eyed observers will clock the cocked-forward mill, now used as a stressed member within a significantly stiffer chassis. Showa suspension bolsters those updates with beefier suspension fore and aft, while larger brakes double down on that argument. You’ll still need a hearty grab of the lever to haul the 196 kg (432 lb) bike to a stop.

Yet, what separates the Himalayan from its exceedingly tall, long-legged ADV brethren is approachability in the form of a low seat height and manageable disposition. Staring up at the surrounding Dhauldar and Pir Punjal Ranges, its svelte size, comparatively low horsepower, and quick-footed nature start to come into focus—we can’t overpower the Himalayas, but this can work with them.

Leaving our base camp in Manali, we embarked on narrow, cliff-side switchbacks still set within the tree line as we climbed ever upward. We got our first taste of the new Sherpa 450, enjoying its midrange punch and welcoming nature. Of course, things need to be kept on the boil at elevation, and gear selection is crucial. There’s punch, though never enough to overwhelm or get too loose on the trail.

Those roads would be a baptism by fire, as riding in India isn’t quite like North America or Europe, though Montrealers might feel right at home with the state of the asphalt. Off-roading opportunities appear at random, sacred bovine wander with impunity, and lanes are merely suggestive in this pass-or-be-passed world, bringing a whole new meaning to the term “defensive driving riding.” Your first and only line of defense is your horn, where a simple beep seems to bring the chaos to heel.

The noise, sights, and sounds starkly contrast to the dimly lit 9.02-kilometre Atal Tunnel, which serves as our portal to the mountains. A thumper’s flatulent din is your only companion until the Himalayas burst into view, capturing anyone’s gaze with their sheer size and vibrant colour. We’d made it.

Exploring the unending twisting Leh Manali Highway, we followed the Chenab River’s path and its almost iridescent turquoise waters. The lack of guard rails or safety precautions sometimes presented heart-stopping views of the canyon floor hundreds of feet below. Packing those uneasy feelings away is this bike’s nimble handling, where its 21/17-inch wheel combination works like a charm in twistier bits of road, flicking from side to side playfully.

Climbing Rohtang Pass, we aimed for rock-strew fire roads within the majestic Spiti Valley, which divides Tibet and India. In a fitting turn of phrase, Spiti means “the middle land,” and this cold, mountainous desert allowed an opportunity to put the new Showa suspension through its paces. Bounding headlong into rocky trails certainly, the substantially improved frame and components began to shine. Its suspenders, while sprung for compliance, rarely found the bump-stomp and the whole package continued exuding confidence. Oddly, the road bias tires hold their own, but I must think that the low centre of gravity and improved chassis also show their worth here.

We’d merely scratched the surface of this mighty range, and the 2024 Himalayan seemed eager to continue exploring. Afterall, it’s casual perch seemed like a cozy place to continue, despite the wind protection. To be fair, that is more likely me imparting my desire to continue traipsing its scenic valleys. It’s said every Indian kid looks north and dreams of visiting the Himalayas. That desire navigates language, culture, and or conceivable barriers, letting anyone who will heed the mountain’s call. Now, we just need to find a way to go back.